Version 7 by Mikl Law
on 17/Mar/2018 22:32.

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Version 8 by Mikl Law
on 26/Apr/2018 12:02.

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{guide}<guide>
<header name="Mt Banks" id="1" walk="1 hour" sun="from 1 pm" rock="sandstone" acknowledgement="Warwick Williams" intro="Big Sometimes loose A massive, badly made wedding cake of a cliff, there are 2 to 3 bands of rock, each over 100m high high ledges between them. The entire cliff is over 2 km along the base." access="For climbs on the left;-Walk down the left ridge and rap to the first ledge, then walk right and rap to the ground. For climbs on the centre and right:- Walk or ride around the back and rap down Groseness. Or walk down from Perry's lookdown and up to the base (2 hours)"/><image id="20" src="banksview.jpg" width="700"/><text id="75" src="Access5.jpg" width="800"/><text id="56">Overview topo</text><image id="57" src="old bankstopo.jpg" width="700"/><text id="58">original hand drawn topo from Warwick Williams Grose guide</text><climb id="14" fa="Russ Kippax, Dave Roots, Enn Trupold, Owen Llewellyn 16,17,18 January 1953" name="Original Route" length="300m+" grade="13">The old fashioned start is down from Perry’s Lookdown on the other side of the Grose (2 hours, easy nav, but you need a car shuffle), and then up. It is considered "slothful" to walk down to the halfway ledge then abseil down. Sounds good if you can work out how. (see below, 80 minutes, best to suss it out beforehand)

Start, left of the huge central gully. A distinctive large block about 5m high next to the face marks the start.
7) 30m Upwards going around the corner into the gully a bit. (or 7a Instead of going up the nose there is a beautiful crack above the belay.)
8) 30m Up to the bivouac bed where a tin contains the names of the great ones.
9 + ) Up the ridge then up to the cliffs. Sometimes very bold though not steep.</climb><image id="73" src="Original route6.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Approximate line. Red is variant. Green is Soaring Corner"/><text id="69">Access to first ledge:- You can just see the rocky gendarme you're heading for from the carpark (see picture below). Contour along for about 800m then drop down 30m into gully, out to ridge and down a bit to small pinnacle (see picture below). Turn L facing out (south) and down ramp (sometimes a fixed rope) which is best to abseil over a little overhang down to first ledge. Walk along south along ledge for another half hour or so to Soaring Corner. To rap the first few pitches below the first ledge check out the topos and walk south about another 30m, get to edge and rap from trees a few times</text><image id="70" src="firstLedge2.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Access Gendarme to First Ledge" width="700"/><image id="71" src="P9100178.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Looking Down at Gendarme at start of access ramp" width="800"/><image id="72" src="firstLedge1.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="walking down to rap to first ledge" width="1000"/><image width="800"/><image id="23" src="Original P1.jpg"/><text id="24">Original route P1</text><image id="38" src="Original P5.jpg"/><image id="37" src="Original start P9.jpg"/><text id="27">Start of Pitch 9 Original route</text><climb id="36" name="Soaring Crack" length="42m" grade="17" fa="Bryden Allen, Hayden Brotchie, Jim Croft - Alt Lead s 2,1,3.">One of the more obvious lines on the left side of King George.
Start: At pitch 5 of the Original Route there is a fierce looking crack on the left side of the wall.
1) 15m Climb right of the large tree and move diagonally to crack. Some poor looking rock and minimal protection. Obvious belay on ledge.
The climbing is very vertical and the rock quality is fair, but there are still plenty of souvenirs to be had.

Access: From the picnic area go out along the fire trail (60 minutes walk or 15 minutes on a mtn bike) till you come out on the open ridge above Bank’s wall and pass the water tank (take a map). Drop west off the track at the low point. Walk down 8m and turn north and walk along under a small cliffette; then a big cave, a long low cave, under a vertical wall with a small roof 12m up and then into a bigger cave with a flat, triangular roof 10m up (walk about 200m in all). This is directly above Groseness, if you go too far (40 m further on) the cliffline turns N.W and you can look back and see Groseness. “Friends don’t let friends place Friends” is about 240 m further north on the ledge.</text><image id="21" src="Small map.jpg"/><image id="22" src="Small map2.jpg" width="600"/><climb id="76" src="Access4.jpg" width="800"/><climb id="3" name="Friends don’t let friends place Friends" stars="**" length="100m" grade="24" fa="M Law, N Monteith (alt) H Lockie 1996">Climbs the “undeniable wall” mentioned in the Coronation Crack description in Warwick William's guidebook. Walk 240 m further left (N) of the top of Groseness along the ledge. On the edge of the wall below are 3 pine trees, rap down off the southmost and smallest one (bring spare slings or rope to back it up with other trees). Rap 50m to small tree and bolt belay, and another 50 m to the ground. Alternately, rap down Coronation Crack. Take a few slings, brackets and many cams up to large size. Shut your eyes on the way down.1) 50m Start about 20m of Coronation Crack at small left-facing weakness. Up past bolt and cams breaks, drift R and up corner at 20m then diagonally left towards ledge and tree belay.2) 50m Up corner above belay and leftwards then up wall with top bolt hard to clip (pre-clip?). Up past cams and some slings to collapse on tree.
</climb><image id="16" src="68652918-O.jpg"/><text id="17">mikl of FA of P1 "Friends don't let friends place Friends"</text><climb id="4" name="Weakened Worriers" stars="**" length="100m" grade="23" fa="Adrian Laing, Mikl Law May 1998">Another route up the grand wall left of Coronation Crack. Best to rap the route, starts below a thin corner 30m left of the top of Coronation Crack. Rap down to cave belay (2BB) and thence to ground. Alternately rap down “Friends don’t let friends place Friends” or Coronation Crack Take lotsa cams, double ropes, and brackets.
1) 50m Up wall past bolt to corner, follow this to roof, right to bolt and up wall to cave.