Version 6 by Mikl Law
on 19/Aug/2011 17:56.

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Current by Mikl Law
on 17/Mar/2018 22:32.

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{guide}<guide>
<header name="Mt Banks" id="1" walk="1 hour" sun="from 1 pm" rock="sandstone" acknowledgement="Warwick Williams" intro="Big
Sometimes loose
<header name="Mt Banks" id="1" walk="1 hour" sun="from 1 pm" rock="sandstone" acknowledgement="Warwick Williams" intro="Big Sometimes loose A massive, badly made wedding cake of a cliff, there are 2 to 3 bands of rock, each over 100m high high ledges between them. The entire cliff is over 2 km along the base." access="For climbs on the left;-Walk down the left ridge and rap to the first ledge, then walk right and rap to the ground. For climbs on the centre and right:- Walk or ride around the back and rap down Groseness. Or walk down from Perry's lookdown and up to the base (2 hours)"/><image id="20" src="banksview.jpg" width="700"/><text id="56">Overview topo</text><image id="57" src="old bankstopo.jpg" width="700"/><text id="58">original hand drawn topo from Warwick Williams Grose guide</text><climb id="14" fa="Russ Kippax, Dave Roots, Enn Trupold, Owen Llewellyn 16,17,18 January 1953" name="Original Route" length="300m+" grade="13">The old fashioned start is down from Perry’s Lookdown on the other side of the Grose (2 hours, easy nav, but you need a car shuffle), and then up. It is considered "slothful" to walk down to the halfway ledge then abseil down. Sounds good if you can work out how. (see below, 80 minutes, best to suss it out beforehand)

A massive, badly made wedding cake of a cliff, there are 2 to 3 bands of rock, each over 100m high high ledges between them. The entire cliff is over 2 km along the base." access="For climbs on the left;-Walk down the left ridge and rap to the first ledge, then walk right and rap to the ground.
For climbs on the centre and right:- Walk or ride around the back and rap down Groseness.

Or walk down from Perry's lookdown and up to the base (2 hours)"/><image id="20" src="banksview.jpg" width="700"/><text id="56">Overview topo</text><image id="57" src="old bankstopo.jpg" width="700"/><text id="58">original hand drawn topo from Warwick Williams Grose guide</text><climb id="14" fa="Russ Kippax, Dave Roots, Enn Trupold, Owen Llewellyn 16,17,18 January 1953" name="Original Route" length="300m+" grade="13">The old fashioned start is down from Perry’s Lookdown on the other side of the Grose, and then up. It is considered slothful to “walk down to the halfway ledge then abseil down”. Sounds good if you can work out how.

Start, left of the huge central gully. A distinctive large block about 5m high next to the face marks the start.

2) 25m Up to the left then right, or Right (supposed to be easier). Traverse (R?) to the nose then fine climbing up the nose.
3) 25m Up the wall. Harder than P1.
4) 21m The scrubby bit onto the next ledge can be slippery. Walk up the ledge to the left. The obvious fearsome looking route.
5) 27m Bear R up the face to a bolt belay beneath a small overhang (on the R of the ledge).
You are at the first ledge, scramble up 30m and left to big corner line- Soaring Crack "The obvious fearsome looking route". Climbs somewhere right of this
5) 27m Bear R up the face to a bolt belay beneath a small overhang (on the R of the ledge, about 20m R of the corner. Some go up the corner or wall just right to ledge at 20m and traverse R).
6) 21m Up the overhang and up to a tree.
7) 30m Upwards going around the corner into the gully a bit. (or 7a Instead of going up the nose there is a beautiful crack above the belay.)
8) 30m Up to the bivouac bed where a tin contains the names of the great ones.
9 + ) Up the ridge then up to the cliffs. Sometimes very bold though not steep.</climb><image id="73" src="Original route6.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Approximate line. Red is variant. Green is Soaring Corner"/><text id="69">Access to first ledge:- You can just see the rocky gendarme you're heading for from the carpark (see picture below). Contour along for about 800m then drop down 30m into gully, out to ridge and down a bit to small pinnacle (see picture below). Turn L facing out (south) and down ramp (sometimes a fixed rope) which is best to abseil over a little overhang down to first ledge. Walk along south along ledge for another half hour or so to Soaring Corner. To rap the first few pitches below the first ledge check out the topos and walk south about another 30m, get to edge and rap from trees a few times</text><image id="70" src="firstLedge2.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Access Gendarme to First Ledge" width="700"/><image id="71" src="P9100178.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Looking Down at Gendarme at start of access ramp" width="800"/><image id="72" src="firstLedge1.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="walking down to rap to first ledge" width="1000"/><image id="23" src="Original P1.jpg"/><text id="24">Original route P1</text><image id="38" src="Original P5.jpg"/><image id="37" src="Original start P9.jpg"/><text id="27">Start of Pitch 9 Original route</text><climb id="36" name="Soaring Crack" length="42m" grade="17" fa="Bryden Allen, Hayden Brotchie, Jim Croft - Alt Lead s 2,1,3.">One of the more obvious lines on the left side of King George.
Start: At pitch 5 of the Original Route there is a fierce looking crack on the left side of the wall.
1) 15m Climb right of the large tree and move diagonally to crack. Some poor looking rock and minimal protection. Obvious belay on ledge.
</climb><climb id="13" name="original route Alternate Finish" grade="14" fa="Warwick Williams, Lynn Thompson, Joe Lorincz Sept 1975">The normal finish is rather scrubby. Instead, from the Bivi ledge head up to the next cliff. Follow close to the base around to the left until a ‘break’ in the severity is found.
Scramble up a slab then up a steep 30m. Exposed wall to the top (BR). Easy scrambling and miscellaneous small cliffs remain to the top.
</climb><climb id="46" name="Cossey-Richardson" length="250m" grade="24" fa="lLee Cossey, Andy Richardson 2004">Hard, on-sight, runout. I wish we could all climb like this.
Start about 100m R of Original route (see photo), right of the central gully is an orange wall with 2 cracks, the left hand crack. orange corner. Follow this for 2 pitches (the business) to the 1st ledge, then simil-solo up diagonally right and wander (below grade 16) to the 2nd ledge then wander off left.</climb><image id="74" src="CR Taghairn.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Cossey Richardson, corner right of Red line. Taghairn, green line"/><image id="51" src="cossey.jpg" width="700"/><text id="52">Rough line of the Cossey-Richardson route</text><climb id="31" fa="Colin Monteath, Howard Dengate 28/02/1970 -01/03/1970" length="300m" grade="14" name="Taghairn">Sounds like it starts about 100m 50m right of the Cossey-Richardson. See hand drawn topo above.
Start “Several hundred meters of the central gully”
1) 21m Fine bridging up right angled corner in yellow rock. Swing R onto nose and up arête to tree anchor.