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Version 44 by Mikl Law
on 03/May/2017 13:50.

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{guide}<guide guidestars="**">
<header intro="A very popular crag located high above the Woronora River. Although only quite short, there are many easy to mid grade routes here, and with top ropes so easy to set up, it's a great beginner's area. The crag is also a popular bouldering spot, with particularly good bouldering on the undercut section underneath The Whorl and Dorothy May and also on the Killer's Kidneys wall. The crag tends to be very cold in winter, since it faces pretty much south and catches the wind that comes howling up the Woronora River. Bundy rebolted a whole swag of routes in 2009, hardware donated by the SRC rebolting fund. " name="Bangor" rock="A short but extensive playground " sun="Shady most of the day" id="1" access="Find Arunta Close in a street directory and get yourself there. Park at the end of the street, being careful not to block any driveways. If there are a few cars already here, please park further up the street and leave plenty of space for the local residents to park. Keep the local residents happy and we can keep the crags open. Wander down the fire trail between house numbers 11 and 12. Veer slightly right and head towards the river. Follow a pad to the main descent gully which involves a little bit of scrambling into a gully and is a wee bit tricky when laden with gear, lunch and your pet pooch. From time to time there is a fixed rope here. There is a second descent gully about 30m west and it also involves some downclimbing. An easy 3rd descent gully is 50m west, directly behind a white 2 story house with blue posts." walk="5 minutes" history="In the early days, given how short the cliff is, most of the easier routes at Bangor were considered top-rope problems. The ethics of the day considered it poor form to bolt such short problems, so a small group of local climbers pursued the art of top-roping, including off the chockstone wedged halfway along the cliffline. Dave Humphries (Dr. Dave) got the bolts rolling during the early '80s. He experimented with loxons, dynabolts, even early versions of glue capsules but finally reverted to good old bashies, establishing a swathe of the crags classics, including: End of the Decade, Python and his business-generating Sports Injuries Clinic. It's fair to say that Dave very much led the way with a small group of locals, such as Peter Faill, Steve Turcsanyi, Dave Weekes, Peter Farkas, Glenn Short, a young Hayden Wallace and Rupert the original lunch-stealing slobbery dog all chipping in over the years. Fun in the shade and a cold beer on top of the cliff, watching the sunset over the Woronora River became the Bangor way. Attitudes changed a bit and by the end of the 80s all the old top-rope problems, and quite a few new harder ones, had sprouted protection and names. There are a few harder things at Bangor now, but the focus remains on light-hearted, sociable cragging. Bring the esky." acknowledgement="Glenn Short, Jason Lammers, Mike Law, Dave Burgess"/><text id="71">Climbs are described right to left, facing the cliff. </text><text id="56" class="text">These cool routes are at the far right side of crag (when facing crag)</text><problem id="59" name="Arete Problem" grade="V8" fa="Joe">A square cut arête 80m right of TW.</problem><climb id="60" name="Egg Rings" grade="18" length="10m" extra="4Þ">Fun jug pulling up steep wall on far right end of crag. Very well protected but has no lower-off.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="16" id="1" length="13m" name="The Whorl" stars="**" fa="Dave Humphries, Peter Faill">At the far right hand end of the crag, in the trees. Marked. A bouldery start leads to interesting climbing up a nice wall (be careful of the bridge of rock at half height). 4 BRs to double bolt belay.
<climb extra="Þ " grade="16" id="2" length="13m" name="Dorothy May" stars="*" fa="Dave Humphries, Peter Faill">Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m left of TW. Very steep start using handlebar hold then stay left up the juggy arête on carrots.
</climb><climb id="80" stars="*" name="Reno" length="13m" grade="20" grade="19" extra="Þ&#9;" fa="Viona Young">1 m left of DM. Desperate boulder or jump to rail. Original snappy coach screws were replaced 2016.</climb><text id="61">There is a popular well chalked bouldering cave at the base of the crag here.</text>
<climb grade="15" id="3" length="12m" name="Lean Too">The deep crack 1m left of DM.
Looks much harder than 15!
<climb extra="4Þ " grade="20" id="4" length="12m" name="Shire Riot">The line of very shiny rings on right side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. Single bolt lower-off.</climb><climb id="77" name="Karins Loose Stool" grade="19" extra="3Þ" fa="Mat Hutchins-Read, 2015">Hard undercut start then up on good edges and slopey pockets. Easier for those with gibbon arms.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="20" id="5" length="12m" name="The Shire Republic" stars="*">The line of rings up the left side of the wall. Tricky rounded top out. </climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="20" id="5" length="12m" name="The Shire Republic" stars="*">The line of rings up left of centre. Tricky rounded top out. </climb><climb id="82" stars="**" name="A pinch and a punch" length="12m" grade="22" extra="Þ&#9; " fa="mikl">left side of wall. funky</climb><climb id="83" stars="**" name="Hobbit Nose" length="10m" grade="21" extra="Þ&#9; " fa="mikl">Nice climbing with a cool finish. Up buttress left of Shire Riot wall, left at 2nd bolt.</climb><image id="101" src="20170422_133806.jpg" width="500"/><text id="102">Drew on Hobbit Nose</text><climb id="84" name="jason's crack project">project, needs cleaning, left of Shire Riot</climb><climb id="85" stars="*" name="A slimp and a slump" length="10m" grade="22" extra="Þ&#9; " fa="Patrick Burr">Two hard sections, wall 3m L of Hobbit Nose, and behind tree about 5m R of base of main descent gully</climb><climb id="86" stars="**" name="Kick Start" length="10m" grade="19" fa="mikl">Thin crack at the base of the gully on the left wall as you walk down, One hard move then up crack (you can shove a high cam in to protect start) and nose on right to easy top out and rings (rap to preserve rope)</climb>
<text id="6">The main descent gully reaches the base of the crag here.
</text><image id="74" src="bangortopo3.jpg" width="800"/>
<climb extra="X" grade="12" id="7" length="6m" name="Rainman">The low angled face 2m left of the descent gully. Up the face with no pro. There are TR bolts.
</text><climb id="87" stars="**" name="Sandstorm" length="11m" grade="20" extra="Þ&#9;" fa="Jeff Crass">Streno, right arete of gully as you walk down. Sit start for then full tick then hard top out to rings well back.</climb><climb id="88" stars="**" name="Glitter" length="11m" grade="21" fa="mikl">Coo trad wall. Start about 1m L of Sandstorm by a little layback. Either hard straight up on crimps or (much nicer and easier) up left a move then right following pockets up to break (hand and fist sized cams). Up crack and tenuous slab finish straight above to rings well back. Good gear after start.</climb><climb id="89" stars="*" name="Bicycle wall" length="11m" grade="20" fa="mikl">Start on ramp as for Rainman but veer right using pocket, hard move to break (hand and fist sized cams). Hard move left into crack and break then up easily.</climb><image id="74" src="bangortopo3.jpg" width="800"/>
<climb extra="" grade="12" id="7" length="9m" name="Rainman" stars="*">The low angled face 2m left of the descent gully. Good trad pro if you look. There are TR bolts.
<climb extra="Þ" grade="21" id="8" length="8m" name="NFM" stars="*">5m left of R, just under arete. Marked. Up to RB then leftwards past two Ubolts to loweroff. Hard first move then easy top.
<climb grade="8" id="22" length="10m" name="Christmas Nuts">1m left of TaB. The grovelly dirty chimney.
</climb><image id="75" src="bangortopo1.jpg" width="700"/>
<climb extra="3Þ" fa="Steve Turcsanyi 1985" grade="19" id="23" length="10m" name="Fixed Steps" stars="*">The rounded arete 1m left of CN. Tricky stuff up and around the arete. Probably best to finish on anchors as for GGG. 3 new RBs

<climb extra="3Þ " fa="H. Wallace 1992" grade="22" id="28" length="8m" name="Death of a Black Boy" stars="*">On right side of big block above massacred black boy. Start as for Monkey Bars, out right through roof and up orange wall past fixed hangers to U-bolt anchors.
</climb><climb id="90" stars="**" name="Another kind of rainbow" length="13m" grade="24" extra="Þ" fa="mikl">Pumpy fun. Start through roof as for Death of a Black Boy then left along lip and up to single U lower at top.</climb><climb id="91" stars="*" name="Neil's roof" length="10m" grade="21" extra="Þ&#9;" fa="Neil Montieth 2017">Start as for Lucky's Roof then take the right leading bolts direct as for Felix (avoiding the major roof flake) then
climb the seam crack up the headwall just right of Felix to shared single bolt lower-off. The headwall is a bit bold with the bolt spacing.</climb>
<problem fa="Nick Clow 2003-07" grade="V3/4" id="29" length="18m" name="The Three Sides Traverse" stars="***">On the lefthand end of the downhill face. Traverse right following hand traverse line. Round corner and traverse uphill (crux). Round corner and traverse short low overhung section to finish in cave.
</problem><climb id="66" name="Lucky's Roof" length="5m" grade="19" fa="Luke Weatherstone 2002" extra="5Þ " stars="**">Also known as Monkey Bars. Monkey along the roof of the cave past RBs to the loweroffs, 19 with cairn start, 21 without (but a few people have damaged tendons on the first move)</climb><climb id="78" stars="**" name="Felix" length="9m" grade="22" extra="6Þ" fa="mikl 2015">Out Lucky's roof to the second bolt then right and around lip and up wall to single Ubolt lower-off at the top</climb>
Back to the main wall.
<climb fa="H. Wallace 1992" grade="22" id="31" length="9m" name="Go, Go, Gadget Arms">Marked GGG. 2m left of FS, on right hand side of blank wall. Thin and desperate moves up the wall. Top rope only, although Hayden did lead it.
</climb><climb <climb id="63" name="Go Go Gadget 2010 Remix" fa="Jason Lammers 2010" length="10m" grade="24" extra="Þ" stars="**" number="3">Battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall. Right of MG and left of the original GGG, at vertical seam. Technical! Finishes on shared lower off with Fixed Steps</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " fa="Trevor Cooper-Williams 1992-01-14" grade="23" id="32" length="10m" name="My Girl" stars="*">4m R of In Depth. A thin boulder problem with bolts. 2 RBs to giant U
<climb extra="X" grade="??" id="33" length="10m" name="C">1m left of MG. 3 manky BRs.
<climb extra="Þ " fa="Chris Wallace 1992" grade="21" id="34" length="10m" name="D" stars="*">1m left of C. 2 FHs to 2RB lower off - Good
<climb extra="Þ" fa="H. Wallace 1992" grade="20" id="35" length="10m" name="A Loving Hole">Up wall on new RBs. Just right of corner crack. A little contrived but what did you expect?
<climb fa="" grade="19" id="36" length="10m" name="Bangor Tiger">Start as for ALH. Traverse left and up. "How many micro routes can we squish in, tigger?"
<climb grade="9" id="37" length="10m" name="In Depth">Corner crack 0.25m left of ALH.
<climb extra="Þ " grade="16" id="40" length="10m" name="Python" stars="*">1m L of PD. 2 FHs up the arete to double bolt belay.
</climb><climb id="92" stars="**" name="Grandma's wheelchair direct" length="12m" grade="16" extra="Þ&#9;">Righ side of cave about 2m L of python</climb>
<climb grade="16" id="41" length="10m" name="Grandma's Wheelchair" stars="*" fa="Dave Humphries" extra="Þ&#9;">4m left of P, on left hand side of cave. Up
<climb grade="16" id="41" length="10m" name="Grandma's Wheelchair" stars="*" fa="Dave Humphries">4m left of P, on left hand side of cave. Up then right past a BR and cam placements to a double bolt belay.
<climb fa="Steve Turcsanyi (solo) 1988" grade="14" id="42" length="9m" name="Get Walking">Start as for GW but straight up.</climb>
<climb extra="X" grade="16" id="43" length="9m" name="Skulduggery">2m left of GW at cave. Up past manky BR then awkwardly over bulge. Easily to top.
<climb grade="15" id="51" length="5m" name="Ali">The jam crack 2m left of the descent gully.
<climb grade="15" id="52" length="6m" name="Slobbery Dog" fa="Peter Faill and Dave Humphries">Corner 6m left of A.Monument to Rupert, Peter Faill's black dog, who had a penchant for stealing climbers' lunches while they were on belay duty. If you have problems with the decent gullies, Rupert used to be able to run up and down them with ease.
<climb id="93" stars="*" name="Racy" length="10m" grade="16" extra="Þ&#9;" fa="Vanessa Peterson">Around arete 10m L of Ali. Start on right, either hard boulder or jump off block to jugs and
up R edge to lower off.</climb><climb id="94" stars="*" name="Facy" length="10m" grade="21" extra="Þ" fa="mikl">Left side of scoop.</climb><climb id="98" name="Slobbery Dog" fa="Peter Faill and Dave Humphries" length="8m" grade="15">Corner 12m left of Ali. A monument to Rupert, Peter Faill's black dog, who had a penchant for stealing climbers' lunches while they were on belay duty. If you have problems with the decent gullies, Rupert used to be able to run up and down them with ease.
Peter Faill and Dave Humphries</climb>
<climb extra="X" grade="12" id="53" length="7m" name="Rockclimber's Waltz">Marked. Up offwidth and (loose looking!) blocks. Two variants at top.
</climb><image id="100" src="MagicSparkleTopo.jpg" width="500"/><climb id="95" stars="*" name="Magic Sparkle" length="10m" grade="10" extra="Þ&#9;" fa="Lexi Law 2017">The track goes under an overhang, this starts on the boulder. Up and wander up slab to funky final friction finish.</climb><image id="99" src="TheDrumTopo.jpg" width=""/><climb id="96" stars="**" name="Belly Bulge" length="10m" grade="21" extra="Þ&#9;" fa="mikl">Start on arete after walking under overhang, shared anchor with The Drum</climb><climb id="97" stars="**" name="The drum" length="10m" grade="16" extra="Þ&#9;" fa="Vanessa Peterson">Up this crack and past drummy hold</climb>
<climb grade="16" id="54" length="6m" name="Head Butte">4m left of RW. Ugly looking crack with reverse head jam.
</climb><image id="73" src="Bangor_Roof.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Richard Matthew-Stubbs on Monkey Bars (David Burgess)" width="500"/>