Access Issues

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Alfords Point Cleanup Day Photos

A great big thank you to all who helped out at the Alfords Point Crag Cleanup Day. We moved 180kg of general rubbish and 300kg of scrap metal (including an old car body and an engine block!) and the National Park is now back to nature... Read the trip report and see photos here

Crag Cleanup Day - Alfords Point (22 April 2012)

Come along to the second crag cleanup day for the year. Help remove some rubbish from the crag and then go climbing for the afternoon! Meet at the crag at 9am and bring some old clothes, gloves, lunch and your climbing kit. Directions to the crag at on the online guide, or email for more info.

Dargan Creek Proposal Submission (2 Mar 2012)

The SRC have made a submission to the Dargan Creek proposed Plan of Management.

Sutherland Crag Cleanup Day (12 Feb 2012)

The first Shire Crag Cleanup Day was a success! Despite less than 24 hours notice, we got plenty of keen bods out and managed to get a few crags done before the afternoon storms came in.

We kicked things off at the Bonnet Bay bouldering cave, where we removed a pile of very skanky mattresses and a few half-buried rotten carpets and other junk. Being a Sunday morning in the Shire, local residents were out and about tending to their lawns and gardens and our activities didn't go unnoticed, so we had a chat to a few residents. They said they don't mind climbers, but would request they keep their noise down and respect the private property boundaries. There often aren't any fences between private property and the crown land so if it looks tended then assume its private land and keep going further to find the climber's trail!

We also dropped in on the Bonnet Bay crag and removed a bag's worth of bongs and beer bottles.

Next stop Bangor. Some really skanky horrible mattress that were a pain to haul up the chimney, a TV, broken chairs, and the world's biggest collection of bongs. We spoke to some local residents too and they also said they don't mind climbers, just don't clog up the street with cars bumper-to-bumper. So when you're visiting a crag like Bangor, and there are a few cars already there, please go park a little up the street and walk 100m and keep the local residents happy!

As The Lost World was nearby we thought we'd drop by and check it out for the upcoming guide. The crag is well named as its a bugger to access unless you can find the rap in. I might cut & tag a track in next time. The cliff was a waterfall and won't be climbable for a long time with this la nina summer. A bit of rubbish but I don't think we'll ever have an 'access issues' at this crag!

On to the Cathedral. Most of the rubbish here is at the car park, not at the crag which stays fairly rubbish free. A big daunting cleanup job that went quickly with lots of bods toiling away. We met one of the residents who lives up the laneway. Turns out he's a climber from way back, and could rattle off all the classics at Arapiles he'd climbed in the 70's. He came back about 10 minutes later and proudly showed us his 1960's guidebooks to the mount. So I don't think we'll be getting any access issues to this crag for a while!

Off to the Lucas Heights tip to drop the load off. A bugger that they want to charge $50 for each mattress. Screw that! Next time chop them up so you can't tell them apart form the other rubbish. But we decided to take them back out with us and left them with a council cleanup pile we spotted earlier in the day.

With impending storms, we dropped by Alfords Point to see how much needed doing out there. Its really worth cleaning up this crag as it's got potential access issues and if we put in the good karma now it will stand us well if the sh*t does come down. A fair amount of rubbish but will move easily with plenty of busy bods, the challenge will be the car chassis. It's only a half a shell, no motor or stuff, not sure what technique we should use to move it, any body got some ideas?

The storms hit and we all bailed to the Royal for a well earned bevvy. Thanks David, Brent, Enmoore & Rob for being good sports and doing your bit to keep the crags clean and hopefully ward off any access issues with grumpy local residents or councils.

Next big cleanup day soon.

Lots of Photos here.

Dargan Creek Reserve Draft Plan of Management

The Draft Plan of Management for Dargan Creek Reserve has been released to the public for comment. You can find it on the Crown Lands website here. Community comments are invited from 28 January 2012 – 2 March 2012.

The Dargans Creek reserve is a Crown Lands Reserve with a trust, which has been dedicated for the purposes of recreation. One recommendation of the Draft PoM is to change the dedication to include conservation values.

Main issues:

  • "appropriate and sustainable climbing and canyoning" activities OK (Cliffcare code of conduct)
  • bolting will require approval
  • no explicit mention of authorised access to Cosmic and the Freezer
  • allow commercial activities (for a fee)
  • vehicles to be banned within the reserve
  • no swimming

We need some quality, personally written submissions supporting climbing activities in the reserve. You could also make comments regarding swimming, car access and camping. Its clear from the document that the land managers are unhappy with the significant environmental impact the 4WD hoons are having on the place. Considering the last debacle with the locked gate being vandalised repeatedly, it will be interesting to see what they come up with!

Point Perpendicular Lighthouse Area Temporary Closed

Effective 1 Feb to July 2012

The Dept of Defence/NSW Parks want to do repair work to the fence and heritage works on the lighthouse this year, and so have asked climbers not to climb around the Lighthouse area from 1 Feb to July 2012.

The fences will be down and they do not want any climbers walking around anywhere in the area. I know this is a pain (especially considering the new guide is out so everybody is psyched to climb there) but we are extremely fortunate to be able to climb here at all, so DO NOT IGNORE THIS REQUEST AND JEOPARDISE THE CONTINUED LONG TERM ACCESS to the Beecroft Peninsula.

This applies to climbing south of Windjammer Wall, all the way to the Outer Tubes. This includes walking around the right hand side of the lighthouse to reach Bayside. The rangers have also requested that climbers do not visit the Bayside area during the restrictions as there has been a fire between the Lemon Sorbet and Mild West areas, and the blackened topsoil is very vulnerable to erosion. Please stay away and give the area a chance to recover.

Robert Dun has produced a detailed map that shows the areas affected.

There are many other areas in the guide you can still climb at, including the sea side areas accessed directly from the lighthouse carpark.

Climbing in Sydney Harbour National Park

April 2011

The SRC has compiled a submission on the Draft Plan of Management for Sydney Harbour National Park, to argue against the proposed ban on climbing at North Head.

Berowra Track Work Day

February 2011

Thanks to everyone who helped out with the track work day at Berowra. The new works should stop any erosion beneath the cliff and let it all recover.

Mountain Equipment Fund Raising Supports Access Fund

December 2010

The Reel Rock Film Tour organised by Mountain Equipment on 3 November raised $1,340 from customer donations and the auction of items donated by ME. This sum has been given to the SRC to be added to the Access Fund and used to pay for rebolting materials.

In addition Mountain Equipment has donated 55 Fixe stainless steel rap stations to the SRC. These will be used to replace old and worn anchors as well as equip new routes throughout the Sydney region.

Kestrels on Hermione Perish:

December 2009

Unhappily it has been reported that a group of overseas climbers moved the kestrel nest that was reported on Hermione (see below). Unfortunately as a result the chicks have died...

Voluntary Bird Ban:- Nesting birds on Hermione (17) at Barden's Lookout

October 2009

There are reports that there is a pair of Nankeen Kestrels nesting in the cave three-quarter way up the above route. Anyone who has climbed this route will have seen the guano and bones littering the hole, which seems to have been abandoned in recent years. It is probably best to stay off the route until nesting season has ended (mid to late summer?).

SRC makes submission to NPWS regarding Mount Scabby Nature Reserve

September 2008

The SRC has compiled a submission on the Draft Plan of Management for Mount Scabby Nature Reserve.
(Note: PDF file - requires Adobe Reader)

SRC makes submission to Blue Mountains City Council regarding Mount York Reserve Draft Plan of Management

March 2008

The SRC has compiled a submission on the Draft Plan of Management for Mount York Reserve.
(Note: PDF file - requires Adobe Reader)

Dam Cliffs climbing area reopens

December 2007

The NSW Department of Lands has issued a statement saying that the Dargan Dam area (better known to climbers as the Dam Cliffs) "...will now be open to the public for recreation following the successful resolution of risk and access issues.".

The Railcorp gate at the turnoff from Chifley Rd is now open and access to the crag is as described in the Onsight Publishing "Blue Mountains Climbing" guide book.

SRC makes submission to NPWS regarding Evans Crown Nature Reserve (Tarana)

January 2007

The SRC has compiled a submission on the Draft Plan of Management for Evans Crown Nature Reserve, commonly known to climbers as Tarana.
(Note: PDF file - requires Adobe Reader)

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